White Balance, Light Meter Sekonic L358 light meter and Grey Card |
Classic Blue Backdrop One shoe flash through white umbrella Black negative fill disk to right |
Black and white conversion Color portait with blue backdrop converted in Photoshop / Nik Silver efex pro |
High Key Portrait 2 flashes reflected off umbrellas at white backdrop 2 flashes reflected off white umbrellas as key and fill |
The setup for the classic color background is usually shoe flash shot through an umbrella left, with a reflective 42" disk on the right. The blue backdrop portrait above has a black negative fill disk to provide about 2 stops of difference between the light on the key (left) versus fill (right.) I had to use a black disk and the wall to the right was reflecting too much light. The key light is 30-45 degrees left ("Rembrandt") and 24" inches away to create a very soft key light. I shoot manual to avoid shot to shot differences that TTL and other auto program modes create; this is caused by differences in skin tone and clothes. Not a big deal if your shooting one image, but the difference is very noticeable to a client when reviewing a screen full of thumbnails.
The high key portrait requires two flashes blowing out a white backdrop, one key and one fill. I set the flashes to over expose the backdrop according to the highlight and histogram on the backdrop. If I change any camera setting I recheck the white backdrop flashes to avoid a blue or grey cast in the backdrop that I will have to deal with in post. Key and flash are flashes reflected off umbrellas 45 deg left and right usually same distance and setting.
In both setups sometimes I use a hair or background fill flash; sometimes this is a single flash shot through a 1/4" grid, or a flash reflected off a gold / silver reflective disk.
Flashes are hot shoe Nikon SB900s or LP160; flash power is set using a Sekonik L358 light meter; so very simple once you get the hang of it. I trigger the flashes using Pocket Wizard Plus II's; I trigger one light with the pocket wizard and the rest are set to fire using the optical sync ~ the other flashes fire when the first flash fires. I want to shoot at 1/200sec and f5.6 most of the time, and the light meter tells me how much flash power to use. A few test shots and your ready to go without much guess work. Almost all lights are of in the room especially if they are florescent, but at 1/200sec they don't contribute much to the image.
I shoot a D300 or D700 at around 100mm focal length. The D300 crop sensor with at 70mm (using a Nikor 35-70 f2.8 lens) is a great combination that has become one of my favorite setups. I shoot a grey card once all is setup as my reference, and shoot it again if I change any camera or flash settings. I shoot mostly TIFF, sometimes RAW if I am having a challenge with a huge mix of color and bright lights are on and I can't turn them off.
This kind of portrait work is very enjoyable if you like meeting new people and chatting which I do. The work can be very efficient if you are careful with your setup; many shots are just about ready to go out of camera. A touch of color (or black and white,) crop and your ready to go.
I have worked in many different types of businesses and this often leads to other work. Recently a head shot job turned into a referral to shoot lifestyle portraits for a media campaign for a hospital cancer treatment center. Fun stuff.
Not a big deal if your shooting one image, but the difference is very noticeable to a client when reviewing a screen full of thumbnails. irving tx locksmith
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