Lazy Hazy Dazy

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Lazy Hazy Dazy, originally uploaded by Steve Loos.

View east looking into Panoche Valley from a ridge in the Diablo Range off of Panoche Road; the historic New Idria Mine and Clear Creek are located in the distant hills.  This was a very windy and hazy afternoon and I was not in this area looking for a landscape image.   I was working my way up a ridge looking for birds, but the wind had most birds tucked well into trees. 

As I was shooting I noticed the light and shadows painting interesting patterns on the hills, and the sunlight was mixing with the haze and forming interesting layers of the ridge lines that ran to the horizon.  The hazy scene was very relaxing and pleasant to view, and I was wondering if I could capture an image that allowed the viewer to enjoy this relaxing, hazy, sunlit view. 

I framed up this image using a 70-200 f2.8 VR at around 135mm and liked the frame.  This is a very “front to back” image, in that the ridge lines that run into the distance provide an important depth to the image.  I shot this with a wide angle lens and the look was dramatic but the wide shot highlighted the valley and not the light and shadows in the distance. 

In post process I moved this image into black and white using Nik Silver Efex and added a bit of sharpness as well as enhancing the blue tones a bit; the black and white process removed a color cast caused by the haze, but the color version was pleasant also.

I learned a few lessons here.  My first assumption when viewing this hazy scene is that a landscape image would not be very appealing.  Only after sitting and enjoying the view did I realize the interplay between the haze, light and shadows was creating a really cool affect on the hills in the distance.  Also the urge to grab a wide angle lens on this vista was strong, but the wide shot distracted the eye from the really nice parts of this view, namely the light and shadows in the distance.  So, don’t be afraid to try a shot on a hazy daytime scene, and be creative with the lens in your bag.  Don’t limit yourself to the wide angle lens when viewing wide angle vistas; sometimes beauty is in the small details even when viewing huge expansive views.  

Also I was shooting in full manual mode and made sure the highlights in the clouds were not over exposed.  I did not use a split grad filter as the shadows in the hills contain enough detail to be interesting, and I prefer the dramatic difference between the bright cloud and dark shadow.  Graduated filters and HDR processing are great tools for handing huge differences between light and shadow in the frame, but consider leaving most of the shadow in place if it is part of the view.  Sometimes letting the shadows fall to a black silhouette can be a dramatic affect.

Storm over Gablians

Storm over Gablians, originally uploaded by Steve Loos.

This photo was taken last week during one of our many storms.  I walked up the hill behind my home and shot this image looking east towards a spectacular thunderstorm.  The shafts of rain and sun under the cloud were mesmerizing, and I’d hoped the photo did the view honor.

I did not use a grad filter and often do not on these storms as I like the dark, ominous feeling under the clouds.  If I can capture event a little detail beneath the cloud without over exposing the cloud tops I usually don’t use a grad filter.  In this image the sun was off my right shoulder and much of the rain beneath the cloud was in sunlight ~ a lucky combination that allowed the camera to capture detail in shadows and rain beneath the cloud without over exposing the white tops of the storm.

This image was shot in raw and use Adobe Camera Raw to post process for color and contrast; no HDR or double process was used.  Mid-tone contrast was enhanced by balancing fill, blacks, brightness and exposure in ACR; a combination of levels and curves can achieve similar results in JPG process in Photoshop (most process software can adjust levels and curves, or look for shadow/midtone/highlight adjustments.)  Try adjusting mid tones before working on shadows and highlights and pay attention to clipping (blowing out highlights and driving shadows to pure black.) 

Then the photo was loaded into Nik Software Silver Efex; a great program for converting photos to black and white.  I played with various settings, and ended up enhancing contrast and adding the “selenia” overlay which gave the image the blue / metallic feel. 

take off; white tail kite

take off, originally uploaded by Steve Loos.

Another shot of my family of White Tail Kites living in my backyard in Hollister California (see previous post for another shot.) These birds setup their nets way at the top of an old pine in my backyard, and the nest is invisible from the ground. I can tell when Mom is in the nest as I hear her screeching and chirping at any bird that gets to close! This is a shot of the Male; he seems to be a happy fellow and loves to harass he crows that also hang out in the in the pines.

Michael Garvin made a great comment on the previous photo, that the tree branches in the frame give the photo depth of field. This is a great point. My favorite flying bird images have a tree or soft background somewhere in the frame. This gives the image some depth and scale; my eye gets lost looking at an image of a bird flying against a featureless sky.  Also the best time for me to photograph birds is at first light in the morning or at sunset; this puts the suns angle very low so the undersides of the wing and body have beautiful soft light.

How did I take this photo?

A few folks asked about the equipment and settings I use to take bird photos.  I started out to write a short simple answer.  Instead I wrote a long answer with simple advice; I hope it is useful.

My best advice

Know your equipment!  Spend time reading the user manual and visiting blogs that discuss your camera.  DPreview.com and kenrockwell.com are two popular sites.  I have missed out on great shots because I forgot how to quickly setup or change a setting on my camera. 

Go to bird and wildlife photographers websites and blogs.  Pay attention to the camera settings and time of day, and read about how they took the image; this is far more important that the equipment!  Quit a fiew "consumer level DSLR cameras" (i.e. cameras that cost less than your first car) are capable of great wildlife photos.   If you read enough you will see that many great images are taken with non-professional equipment by photographers who have mastered the equipment they use. 

Many photographers spend thousands of dollars on the newest and greatest gear, or the "professional" grade equipment and still get poor results.  Do not use dollars to chase image quality!  

When shooting birds or other wildlife do not rely on any auto setting in your camera.  Do not use the "P" program mode, or any of the presets including "wildlife" or "pets." These settings can be great in many situations, but when shooting wildlife the chances at a good image come and go so quickly you don't want to leave that chance up to the camera.  The auto settings are asking the camera to make all the decisions about lighting, exposure, focus, shutter speed, aperture and ISO.  When the "auto" photos are not coming out as expected it is often difficult to decide what settings to change as you don't always know what the camera is doing! 

Go outside and practice on leafs, pine cones, chimneys, fence posts, squirrels, bugs, kids (go shoot kids at a soccer game ~ you will learn a lot of good stuff!)   Practice on all the common birds and wildlife in your yard,  even your dog and cat; I have captured some great bird images while practicing. 

I can't stress this enough.  Most chances to capture good wildlife images come in 15 second blocks of time out of hours of waiting.  You will ruin your enjoyment if you miss these shots due to not knowing your equipment and techniques.  Being able to adjust your camera quickly to match a certain situation is a must have skill! 

Equipment

I prefer small sensor cameras as these provide higher effective focal length while maintaining resolution; this was taken with a D300 which has a 1.5x crop sensor that makes a 300mm lens will be similar to a 450mm lens on a full frame camera.  This helps a lot on bird images but you still have to be close; I was less than 150’ from the bird at most times and still had to crop 25% to 50%.  

I used a 300mm f2.8 lens. This lens is “fast” in that it lets in a lot of light allowing for faster shutter speeds; fast shutter speeds are a must with birds and sports.  An f2.8 lens is twice as "fast" as a f4 lens in that the f2.8 lens can let in twice as much light as an f4 lens.  Does this matter if both lens are shot at f5.6?  Maybe; many lenses have a sweet spot one or two f stops higher than the widest aperture; the f2.8 may be a lot sharper at f5.6 than the f4.   Also I can keep shooting in low morning and evening light, my favorite times to shoot wildlife.  Another popular lens is the 400mm f4; slower so must be used in good light for fast shutter speeds but I have seen many beautiful wildlife and landscape images taken with this lens.  

The 300 f2.8 is a "prime" lens as a opposed to a "zoom" lens.  A 70-200mm f2.8 is a "zoom" lens as opposed to a "prime" lens.  I find the images that come from prime lens sharper with better detail and color; this is due to lens design.  A zoom lens has more moving parts and more glass in order to make the lens zoom and this can compromise image quality.  There are some great zoom lens in the market and these can be a better value for many people as they are far more versatile than prime lens; if you have a 300mm lens on your camera and you want to shoot a wide landscape, you'll need another lense.   

Keep in mind the longer the lens (a 400mm lens is "longer" than a 200mm lens and has more magnification) the higher the shutter speed required for a sharp image, especially handheld.  Also, the new vibration reduction ("VR") lenses will not help shooting fast moving objects.  The VR is useful for low light hand held photography of slow moving or stationary objects.  When chasing fast moving objects sometimes the VR must be turned off; "VR" is not a useful feature for sports or bird photography. 

 

dinner; white tailed kite

dinner, originally uploaded by Steve Loos.

I live in San Benito County on California’s central coast. Located along the Pacific Flyway reaching from Alaska to South America our area sees an incredible array of bird life each season. This fellow however is a year round native; a male White-Tailed Kite. These falcon-like birds were nearly extinct in California due to egg hunting, but are now well established in some areas.

These birds are common residents along grassy hillsides, and are easy to spot as they often “kite” or flutter their large white wings in a hovering motion, waiting to pounce on prey. I had not seen too many near my home, but this year this pair has setup housekeeping at the very top of a an old pine in my backyard. In addition to the regular crows, mockingbirds, doves, red tail hawks, finch, hummingbirds (little green guys - don't know the name,) and western woodpecker, these trees are home to migrating ring neck pigeons and now a pair of kites.

I only noticed them the other day, and this evening the setting sun was mixed with clouds and rain, throwing a soft warm light across the sky. Mom was in the nest, and in between harassing the local crows dad was out hunting. I noticed dad on his way back with one leg tucked up under his body and assumed he had a meal; turns out it was a nice fat mouse or gopher; he even had a few blades of grass included.

I used a D300 and 300mm f2.8 lense, bumped the ISO up a bit to keep shutter speeds fast, and set aperture priority at f5~f5.6; this gave me a decent depth of field and 1/1000sec+ shutter speeds. The D300 has a nice feature; center weight focus with object tracking. As long as I put the focus point on the subject before half-depressing the shutter, the camera will track that subject all around the frame and maintain focus. This is a great feature when trying to track birds or airplanes against a featureless sky; if focus is lost the lense will wander well out of focus and recovery to focus takes far too long.

3 against 1

3 against 1, originally uploaded by Steve Loos.

Postcards from San Benito County!
Thank you to the staff at the Chamber of Commerce for honoring me with a request to create postcards that highlight the beautiful and unique place that is San Benito County. What a better place to start than a photo of wild broncs and the cowboys at the historic Saddle Horse Show and Rodeo!

 Visit the San Benito County Chamber of Commerce
 650 San Benito Street, 831-637-5315
 www.sanbenitocountychamber.com

10 miles with a flag

10 miles with a flag, originally uploaded by Steve Loos.

Runner made 10 miles carrying American Flag. US Marine Corps banner on top says it all. Hoo-Rah!

Honesty in Photography

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his post was originally written in 2011 on an old blog platform.  I have moved it here so it can live on in a new home.

In 2011 there was (maybe still is?) a great discussion in G Dan Mitchell's photography blog;  the topic was "is it real?"  The conversation had been blog-bouncing for over a month and talks about when a photograph is real, or when it has been Photoshop-ed into something that is no longer a photograph. I was curious if it is not a photograph, what else can it be?  Here is the link to Dan's blog topic:  

http://www.gdanmitchell.com/2011/01/13/what-is-real

I was so enthralled with this discussion that I compelled to blow off an entire nights sleep to write a short article on the “art vs. photography” debate (link:
http://steveloosphotography.blogspot.com/p/is-it-life-art-or-photoshop-journey-to.html

Months after these posts, the discussion goes on (and will forever, I hope!)  This is a follow up reply to that discussion.

Thanks for a great topic Dan!

Steve Loos

(my reply)

Honesty in discussing the image is important.  Certainly as you both point out, if you make a composite image then somewhere in the footnotes of that image this should be discussed.  Landscape Pros struggle with this all the time.  Sign posts, power lines, stray people and ugly cows (well maybe not the cows) are doctored out of an image if the landscape photographer can’t first change their perspective.  Should this be discussed in the image?  I don’t know many who believe these items contributed to the image and therefore are not important enough to the image to discuss.  How about those composites, bracketing and HDR?  Should the landscape photographer disclose that this was composite (even if a single image double processed?)  Most folks I follow do indeed believe that important elements of the image were changed, and they do discuss these changes. So here the community seems to have found a somewhat clear boundary.  And, clear boundaries are scarce in discussions of art. 

Humans need boundaries (rules, structure, whatever)! These “art versus photograph” conversations arise then we humans attempt to apply rules to art.  Attend a class on “the rule of thirds” and you will learn a lot of great information on composition.  But, try and apply those rules to the photographs you view, and soon you will be staring in awe at a beautiful DuChemin image with the subject and horizon neatly splitting the image in half, both vertically and horizontally (see http://www.pixelatedimage.com/blog/2011/01/dont-break-the-rules/, January 2011.)  Read this and you’ll wonder if you wasted time learning rules.   

Rules serve to teach artists the basics ~ and well beyond the basis; they also help photographers struggling to frame an image just as they help a painter fill his canvas.  But these rules work best when they are applied (and broken) looking out through the viewfinder, not while looking back at the final image.  Here is an absolute for you; not every piece of art will satisfy everyone who views it.  And, some of those who do not feel satisfied with a photograph will try and reverse-engineer the “rules” of art to explain why they don’t like the image.   It’s just my opinion, but these rules don’t work that way. 

Great discussion!

Steve Loos